Nailed On

Just because I seem to spend most of my time larking around with cancer specialists in Harley Street don’t mistake me for bone idle. Today, after a consultation with my psychiatrist (depression improving, he says) I did the rounds of the beauty shops. Enthusiasm for my work carried me away – I ended up buying a foundation, a lip gloss, some henna and a bottle of nail polish.

Now I shall have to spend hours and hours testing and researching these goodies on your behalf. As my old mate Lao Tzu always says: “The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” I’ll start with the nail polish.

I have written previously about the ‘big 3’ toxic chemicals in nail polish: Toluene; Formaldehyde and Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP). Thanks in part to the EU banning DBP along with a lot of public pressure in the USA, many cosmetics companies have now reformulated their nail polishes to be ‘3 free’.

My all-time favourite nail polish is a startling shade of neon pink by Essie. I threw the box away long ago so I have no idea what is in it. I search for it on the Cosmetics Database. The following formulation is listed:

Butyl Acetate, Toluene, Nitrocellulose, Ethyl Acetate, Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin, Dibutyl Phthalate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Camphor, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Benzophenone 1, May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), D&C Red 6 Barium Lake (CI 15850), FD&C Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake (CI 19140), D&C Red 7 Calcium Lake (CI 15850:1), Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide (CI 77510), Red Iron Oxide (CI 77491), Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), D&C Red 34 Calcium Lake (CI 15880:1), Violet 2 (CI 75150), Aluminum Powder (CI 77000), Guanine (CI 75150), Blue 1 (CI 422090), Red 33 (CI 17200), Red 30 (CI 73360), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Polyethylene Teraphthalate, Mica

Now this raises a question in my mind. As far as I know Dibutyl Phthalate has been banned in cosmetics in the EU for some time. I bought the nail polish at Selfridges last year so I think I can safely assume that the ingredient listing on the Cosmetics Database is either USA specific or simply out of date.

Essie don’t seem to make my beloved lurid pink colour anymore. I email them and quick as a flash the answer comes back:

Essie Punchy Pink nail polish

Ethyl Acetate, Butyl Acetate, Nitrocellulose, Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Co-polymer, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Camphor, Benzophenone 1.

May contain: CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 15880 (D&C Red 6 Barium Lake), CI 15880 (D&C Red 7 Calcium Lake), CI 19140 (D&C Red 34 Calcium Lake), CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow 5 Aluminium Lake), CI 77510 (Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide), Polyester-3, CI 77491 (Red Iron Oxide), CI 45380 (D&C Red 21), CI 45410 (D&C Red 28)

So the formulation has been vastly improved, although it still contains the suspected carcinogens Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol and Camphor as well as Benzophenone 1 a suspected endocrine disruptor. In addition, there is absolutely no data on Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Co-polymer, meaning that its safety for cosmetic use has not been assessed by anyone at all.

Q: What do I deduce from all of this?

A (1): That nail varnishes can be and have been made a lot less toxic than they used to be – so what the hell took them so long to do it?

A (2): That I have lots of bottles of nail varnish hanging around in my bathroom and no idea how long they’ve been there, in which country I bought them or what is in them.

Conclusions: 

(1) Campaigning can produce positive change. 

(2) Chuck out any old nail polish – better safe than sorry.

Phew. Now, on to my review.

Priti 631 Kingfisher Daisy. Priti claims to be “luxury and eco-friendly nail polish... completely non-toxic and made without toluene, dibutyl phthalate and formaldehyde...” It goes on quite thinly and dries but dries quickly so I am able to apply more coats without endless hanging around. After three coats the colour coverage is complete - yet completely matte. To be fair, all of that is also true of the Essie Punchy Pink.

I reach for my trusty old bottle of Bloom Crystal Clear and apply a final coat of gloss (ingredients: unknown, age: unknown, country of origin: unknown). Obviously this defeats the object of the whole exercise but my nails now look lustrously gorgeous.

Priti 631 Kingfisher Daisy.

INGREDIENTS: Butyl Acetate. Ethyl Acetate. Nitrocellulose. Acetyl Tributyl Citrate. Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Copolymer.  Isopropyl Alcohol. Stearalkonium Hectorite. Adipic Acid/Fumaric Acid/Phthalic Acid/Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer. Citric Acid.

ALL COLORS HAVE BEEN FDA APPROVED. MAY CONTAIN: D&C Red #6 Barium Lake. D&C Red #7 Calcium Lake. D&C Red #34 Calcium Lake. FD&C Yellow #5 Aluminum Lake. D&C Yellow #10 Aluminum Lake. FD&C Blue #1. Aluminum Lake. Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide. Red Iron Oxide. Black Iron Oxide. Guanine. Bismuth Oxychloride. Mica. D&C Violet #2. D&C Red #17. D&C Red #33. D&C Yellow #11. FD&C Blue #1. FD&C Green #3. D&C Green #6. D&C Yellow #10. Polyethylene Terephthalate. Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Tin Oxides. Silica (and) Aluminum Powder (and) Iron Oxides. Aluminum Powder

Ha. My new “eco-friendly... completely non-toxic” nail polish also contains Ethyl Acetate and Isopropyl Alcohol. There’s no Camphor or Benzophenone 1 but it does contain the mystery ingredient Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Co-polymer as well as Adipic Acid/Fumaric Acid/Phthalic Acid/Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, another substance that has not been assessed for safety in cosmetic use.

The truth is that nail polish is one of those products that can never be made totally ‘safe’. At least not if we want it to be colourful, shiny and long lasting. The alternative is to paint one’s nails with little Lily's watercolour set.

My resolve is to make the best of a bad job by seeking out the most un-toxic nail polishes I can find and then using them only once a month. The rest of the time I shall shine my nails up with mum’s lovely nail buffer.

Flash a Lash

I have always suffered from panda eyes, a ghastly feminine affliction. Mascara rubs off onto my lower eye bags in great big black smudges. It must be something to do with the shape of my face. A few years ago I was overjoyed to discover a new type of mascara that coats the eyelashes with little ‘tubes’. I have no idea how it works but tubing mascara doesn’t come off except with the combination of both water and pressure. When those two things are applied together it simply slides off the lashes in little spidery black strands. So, for example, if you cry and then rub your eyes with a tissue... to tell the truth I have had quite a lot of spidery little black strands scattered over my cheeks this year.

Anyway, in keeping with Chemo Chic’s new policy of exposure de maquillage, I decided to find out what is in it.

Blinc Mascara - black

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Acrylates Copolymer, Triethanolamine, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. [May contain (+/-): Iron Oxides (CI 77499, CI 77492, CI 77491), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)

Many of the ingredients seem on the less harmful end of the scale, apart from triethanolamine and two of the dreaded parabens sisters: Methyl and Propyl.*

A study led by Dr Phillipa Darbre at the University of Reading found parabens in all of the samples of breast tumours tested. According to Dr Darbre: “Their detection in human breast tumours is of concern since parabens have been shown to be able to mimic the action of the female hormone oestrogen and oestrogen can drive the growth of human breast tumours. It would therefore seem especially prudent to consider whether parabens should continue to be used in such a wide range of cosmetics applied to the breast area (including antiperspirants and deodorants).”

The Cosmetics Database gives Blinc mascara a hazard rating of 5 (out of 10). I should add that the Blinc website states that “Blinc does not penetrate your skin or your lashes, unlike most mascaras”.

I return to Being Content to check out alternatives. “Natural mascaras tend to be a bit dry,” says Imelda, “There isn’t a waterproof one but you can get water resistant. On the whole,” she adds, “alternative mascaras have not yet been perfected.”

The best of the bunch seems to be Oy! Volumising Mascara by Green People. It is soft and easy to apply. It gives good length and doesn’t clump. But, I am sorry to say, after a few hours wear the mascara has crept downward and pooled in two black smudges beneath my lower lids. Maybe panda eyes will one day become the hot look amongst informed fashionistas? Until then, I have heard that Margo Marrone at the Organic Pharmacy has spent five years developing Organic Glam mascara. When I get around to trying it out I will give you my report.

Oy! Volumising Mascara

Ingredients: Aqua (water), Cera alba (beeswax)*, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil*, Cera carnauba (carnauba wax)*, Stearic acid, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter*, Glycerin, Triticum vulgare (wheat) starch*, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl caprylate, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Xanthan gum, Potassium hydroxide, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid. May contain: CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77007, CI 77288, CI 77289, CI 77742, CI 77510 (mineral pigments). *23.4% organic / 98.71% natural ingredients.

*p.s I feel that I should let you know that parabens can be added to your food too. E218 is methylparaben, E214 is ethylparaben and E216 is propylparaben. Butylparaben is not used in food, so no E-number is assigned to it.

p.p.s. Here are some more baby panda pics, because they're just so cute.

Brush Your Teeth With Confidence

I recently began a forensic inspection of all the personal care products in my bathroom. At the time I was quite put out to discover the hazardous potential of the several different brands of toothpaste that were lying around.

The ingredients are seldom listed on the tube, or on the websites of the manufacturers. But it’s a safe bet to assume that one’s toothpaste may contain some or all of the following: sodium fluoride; triclosan; hydrogen peroxide; sodium hydroxide; polyethylene glycol; Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS); Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES); sodium saccharin and sodium monofluorophosphate.

Eeek. I mean, I put this stuff in my mouth two or three times a day!

My number 2 spectacles and I paid a visit to Portobello Wholefoods where we scanned the shelves. There were quite a few strong contenders but eventually I plumped for Weleda’s Salt Toothpaste, just because I find the idea intriguing.

I love it! It is very different from any other toothpaste I’ve ever tried. First of all, it is not white or blue but a kind of pink-amber colour. It tastes strongly of salt and even more strongly of peppermint oil. It reminds me slightly of those salty lemon drinks that one quaffs in India to stave off dehydration. Leaves a decidedly fresh, tingly feeling in the mouth.

Ingredients (from the Weleda website): Sodium Bicarbonate, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Silica, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Prunus Spinosa Fruit Juice, Commiphora Myrrha Extract, Krameria Triandra Root Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract, Arum Maculatum Root Extract**, Sodium Chloride, Cyanopsis Tetragonalba (Guar) Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Alcohol, Esculin, Flavour (Aroma)*, Limonene*, Linalool*. *from natural essential oils ** In highly diluted Form/ Extremement Dilue

Result

                  From: CONSUMERCARE-UK@GCC.MACCOSMETICS.COM

               Subject: Re:MAC Response to Case No.44528

                       To: Canalily

Dear Ms. Canalily, 

We are in receipt of your recent correspondence. 

As requested, please find below the ingredient listing for the Studio Moisture Tint SPF15, for your perusal. 

INGREDIENTS: WATER\AQUA\EAU [] CYCLOPENTASILOXANE [] BUTYLENE GLYCOL [] ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE [] STEARETH-21 [] GLYCERYL STEARATE [] DIMETHICONE [] ISOSTEARIC ACID [] TROMETHAMINE [] TOCOPHERYL ACETATE [] LECITHIN [] CHOLESTEROL [] ASCORBYL PALMITATE [] SODIUM HYALURONATE [] CAFFEINE [] ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF WATER [] HYDROGENATED LECITHIN [] SUCROSE [] SORBITOL [] SILICA [] MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE [] TREHALOSE [] CARBOMER [] STEARETH-2 [] CELLULOSE GUM [] PVP [] PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE [] GLYCERYL POLYMETHACRYLATE [] METHYLDIHYDROJASMONATE [] XANTHAN GUM [] CAPRYLYL GLYCOL [] STEARIC ACID [] SODIUM CITRATE [] PEG-8 [] GLYCERIN [] DISODIUM EDTA [] HEXYLENE GLYCOL [] BHT [] PHENOXYETHANOL [] CHLORPHENESIN [] CHLOROXYLENOL []  [+/- MICA [] IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) [] TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891)]

Please be assured of our best attention. 

Sincerely,

Rachel Martin

Consumer Care Centre

Global Consumer Communications

I am pleased to find that this product contains relatively few suspect carcinogenic or endocrine disrupting ingredients. Surely it would be a simple thing for the MAC boffins to find safe alternatives for the sunscreen Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (a.k.a. Octinoxate), the skin conditioner Tocopheryl Acetate, the solvent PEG-8, the masking agent BHT, the preservative Phenoxyethanol and a few other odds and sods? They would then reap the benefit of being able to market an undeniably safe product and thereby enjoy the eternal gratitude of the likes of you and me.

Product Replacement - Part 2

Base

I currently use: MAC Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15, ingredients unknown.

Jane Iredale Dream Tint

Jane Iredale was one of the first companies to develop a full range of mineral-based make-up. Minerals cannot be certified as organic but the ingredients list is quite harmless. This is a light, silky tinted moisturiser that can also be used as a primer for a heavier base. The primary ingredient is Titanium Dioxide, which means that it provides a SPF of 15.

Suki Color Tinted Active Moisturiser

This is heavier than the Jane Iredale but still very light. It only comes in three shades so you might not find one that is right for your skin tone. Great list of natural ingredients. No SPF.

Nvey Eco Moisturising Foundation

I’m pleased to say that, when it comes to developing great natural and organic cosmetics, Antipodean companies are in the vanguard. Nvey products are certified by Organic Food Chain. The makers pledge that their products contain no Parabens; SLS; Propylene Glycol or Petroleum oils. They are free of GM ingredients and not tested on animals. Great credentials. This is a proper foundation with a silky finish. Quite a good range of colours.

Inika Pure Primer and Liquid Mineral Foundation

If you’re going for the full-glamour flawless matte finish use this primer and foundation together. The ingredients sound like the contents of a physic garden.

Blusher

I currently use: Benefit Dandelion

Because powder blushers can be easily made entirely of mineral ingredients there is no need for them to contain any preservatives whatsoever. Nevertheless my Benefit powder blusher contains methylparaben; butylparaben; ethylparaben; isobutylparaben and propylparaben along with talc; polyethylene; phenoxyethanol; alumina and a few other suspicious-sounding ingredients that aren’t even listed on the Environmental Working Group’s chemical database. I'm just amazed to find that my innocent looking cheek powder is a fizzing cocktail of carcinogens and endocrine disruptors. Why? 

I have enough of this product left to last me about a year. Even though I bought it only recently at a cost of A$54 I think I’m going to have chuck it. There are a lot of contenders in the natural powder blusher category, all of them perfectly good. The one that came closest in tone to ‘Dandelion’ is:

Nvey Eco Organic Powder Blush 955

Product Replacement

Here is what happened: I promised you that, as each one ran out, I would replace all my skincare products and cosmetics with healthier, purer alternatives. Recently I squeezed out the last drop of my MAC tinted moisturiser. Well I did intend to research the alternative but then I was right there in Harrods and I just happened to be near the MAC counter... “Can you tell me what is in this?” I asked, holding up a tube of tinted moisturiser. There was no list of ingredients either on the tube or on the box. The sales girl looked bored as she flicked open a huge folder of MAC product information. “It’s not listed,” she said. “Oh well, I’ll take it anyway. Will you be so good as to email me the list of ingredients?” I added, somewhat sternly.  “Yes, write down your email address.” That was about six weeks ago.

Have I had an email from her? Have I hell. I subsequently sent an email to MAC customer services requesting the information. They have not replied. Their reticence can only lead me to assume the worst.

But this product replacement is tricky. I’ve realised that just waiting until something runs out and then wondering what to replace it with is leaving it too late. I’ve decided to take it upon myself to do the research, so you don’t have to.

I paid a visit to Imelda Burke at her wonderful shop Being Content in Bulstrode Street, Marylebone. To make Imelda work on your behalf, I took with me a huge bag of all the beauty products that I use regularly and challenged her to come up with an alternative for each one.

I will review these products in-depth when and if I ever get around to actually bringing them home. This will be a long enough post as it is. But I want to give you an overview of the kind of things that are available.

Body lotion.

I currently use: cheap coconut oil from Tesco.

Imelda says that is fine as far as it goes but be aware that they bleach the coconut oil to make it white and also heat it in the extraction process. It would be better to use a certified organic raw coconut oil. I will get onto that. Coconut oil is fine but a bit boring. What if we want something a touch fancier? Imelda’s first suggestion is

Evolve Mega Omega body cream

The Evolve brand has been developed by Laura Rudoe. She was formerly head of development at Nude Skincare. Her aim is to bring certified organic and natural skincare to the mass market. And she seems to be succeeding. Evolve products are now available through Ocado. The body lotion has a creamy consistency and smells like cake. Certified organic by Ecocert.

Laidbare Butter Me Up

This is a much thicker body cream made with organic shea butter. It has a heavenly floral fragrance. Certified organic by Ecocert.

Pai Comfrey and Calendula Calming body cream

This is a thick lotion designed for sensitive skin. It has anti-inflammatory properties so is ideal if you have itchy skin or eczma. Pai products are certified as organic by the Soil Association.

Weleda Wild Rose body lotion

When it comes to organic skincare, Weleda is the trusty go-to brand. Great products at reasonable prices. This lotion is runnier than the others, more like a body milk. It smells gorgeous and is cooling on the skin. Certified organic under the Natrue system.

Face.

I currently use: REN Rose 012 Ultra Moisture Serum.

“Very good,” says Imelda. “But,” say I, “it is very expensive. Perhaps you could recommend an alternative for daytime use?”

Barefoot Botanicals SOS face and body cream

This moisturiser contains therapeutic herbs that are great for irritable or very dry skin. A lot of men like this product: it has a fresh smell and is great for after shaving. Also it is multi-purpose, a bit like a Swiss Army knife.

Weleda Wild Rose day cream

An outstanding and popular moisturiser. It absorbs well and smells lovely.

We started at the reasonable end of things but, as is the case with face products, prices are soon rocketing.

Nude Skincare Age Defence moisturiser

The standout claim of Nude Skincare is that their products contain natural peptides, which are anti-ageing. They are mostly derived from milk: milk protein; whey protein; bifida ferment lysate and lactose. I don’t know what Professor Jane Plant would have to say on this matter but it sure is a lovely moisturiser.

Dr Alkaitis Organic Day Cream

This is a really interesting range. Dr Alkaitis is an Ethnopharmacologist, whatever that may be. He starts from the premise that the sheer number of synthetic chemicals that we are subjected to on a daily basis bears a correlation to the seeming epidemic of cancer that we are experiencing. Dr Alkaitis claims that his products contain only ‘living’ plant materials and that no ingredient is heated to more than body temperature. The face creams are so organic and natural that apparently one could spread them on toast, although at £65 for a 50ml bottle you might be better off sticking with the caviar.

Amala Hydrating Face Cream

The U.S.P. (unique selling point - dummy) of the Amala brand is that they have done lots of clinical testing in Germany to prove that their natural products are as effective as the synthetic equivalents. This may go some way towards justifying the price - £60 for 30ml.

That’s enough beauty products for today but there are lots more to come. Stay tuned...

Fruit Salad for the Face

After so much time spent recently in hospitals, waiting rooms and in bed I feel my face is taking on a distinctly grey pallor. Time to try:

REN F10 Smooth and Renew Peel Mask

The entire bottle is made of plastic. There is no indication of what type of plastic. I pump out a splodge of gorgeous, gelatinous goo. It smells more like blackcurrants than roses. Later I read on the REN website that: “Omega 3 and 6 from arctic blackcurrant reduce skin inflammation” and that it also contains vitamin C from Barbados cherry to fight free radicals and Papain from Mexican papaya to eliminate dead skin cells. Quite the international fruit salad.

I smooth it over my face and neck, avoiding the delicate eye area and generally trying to look like one of those classic face-mask magazine ads. Instead I get quite a lot of it in my hair and a little bit up my nose as well.

After ten minutes of not using the telephone, scratching my chin or putting on my reading glasses I attempt to “pat and lift with fingertips.” Just once I would like to find a face mask that actually lifts off like a second skin. The only thing that ever came close was when, at school, my friends and I smeared our faces with clear glue and then peeled it off. There is something deeply satisfying about doing that, like picking a scab. But I no longer recommend glue as part of one’s weekly beauty regime. I think it’s probably made of cow products anyway.

Now comes the best bit. This face mask is packaged with it’s own little muslin cloth, complete with a REN label. How posh. I dampen the cloth and then rub the mask off in circular motions. The mask contains some fine granules, so as I rub with the cloth I get an extra exfoliating cleanse.

I have to say that afterwards my face feels fresh and alive. I smooth on a squirt of REN Rose 012 Ultra moisture serum and I’m positively aglow.

Ingredients (from the REN website): Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Water, Glycerine (Source Coconut Oil), Polysorbate 60 (Source Rape Seed Oil), Lecithin (Source Soybean), Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Extract, Xanthan Gum (Source Corn), Maltodextrin, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (Acerola Barbedos Cherry) Fruit Extract, Parfum (100% Natural Fragrance), Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Phenoxyethanol (Source Aromatic Ether), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium HydroxymethylGlycinate (Source Amino Acid)

Secrets Keep Us Sick

I have noticed a tendency amongst some cosmetics manufacturers not to list the ingredients contained in their products on their websites. I wonder if these might be the manufacturers with the most to hide?

Product: Jan Marini AntiOxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30

Dear Sir or Madam, Please be so kind as to email me a list of the ingredients contained in Jan Marini AntiOxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30. With best regards, Cannalily

Product: M.A.C. Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15

Dear Sir or Madam, Please be so kind as to email me a list of the ingredients contained in M.A.C Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15. With best regards, Cannalily

Product: Benefit Dandelion face powder

Dear Sir or Madam, Please be so kind as to email me a list of the ingredients contained in Benefit Dandelion. With best regards, Cannalily

Cleanliness is Next to Godliness

Product: Nude Cleansing Facial Oil (100ml £22)

This divine, light oil is one of those products that tempt me to imagine that I might have been royalty in a former life. Every night I pump two squirts into my palms then massage it all over my face and neck (I pat it onto my eyes as well). I leave it to soak in for a minute whilst I inhale the gorgeous scent of lilies. Then I sprinkle a cotton wool pad with rosewater and wipe it off. All my make-up, including mascara, eye pencil and matte lipstick, just melts away. This facial oil makes my face cleansing routine something that I look forward to, rather than an end-of-the-day chore.

Nude claims that its products are “Beautiful without parabens, sulphates, PEGs, TEA, DEA, propylene glycol, phthalates, GMO, mineral oil and silicones.” What a shame that they have not left out a few other dodgy substances: benzyl benzoate, linalool and eugenol

INGREDIENTS: glycine soja (soybean) oil, polyglyceryl-4-oleate (vegetable oil), squalene (olive oil), tocopherol acetate (plant sources), natural fragrance (parfum), benzyl benzoate (essential oil), linalool (essential oil), eugenol (essential oil)

I'm on the Case

Since I am laid up at home recovering from surgery I have decided to conduct a forensic investigation of all of the beauty products in my bathroom. I feel like that policeman in The Daughter of Time. There are rather a lot of them so I’m starting with those that I use on a daily basis.

Product: Sukin Cream Cleanser

I bought this cleanser in Australia. Since I’ve been home its place has been usurped by my favourite Nude Facial Oil. But I keep the Sukin as a back-up for travel.

Sukin bills itself as ‘Organic Australian Skincare’, ‘SLS and Paraben Free.’ Sounds good. The ingredients (see below) read like the contents of a physic garden, until, that is, I notice Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl Alcohol. These ingredients are not heinous but the Cosmetics Safety Database rates both of them as ‘moderate hazard’ with concerns in the areas of cancer and neurotoxicty.

Why not just leave them out?

Ingredients: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20, Glycerin, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rose Hip), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Equisetum Arvense Extract (Horsetail), Arctium Lappa Extract (Burdock), Urtica Dioica Extract (Nettle), Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Extract, Linalool,* Limonene.* 

* Natural component of essential oils.

Product: Tom’s of Maine Fennel Toothpaste

‘Flouride-free formula. This product does not contain saccharin; artificial sweeteners, preservatives, colours, or flavours; or animal ingredients. Tom’s of Maine is against animal testing.’

I love the taste of this toothpaste and have used it for years. So I am very disappointed to learn that it contains Sodium Lauryl Sufate.

Ingredients: Calcium Carbonate, aqua, glycerin, xylitol, Chondrus crispus, sodium lauryl sulfate, natural flavour (aroma), d-Limonene, Commiphora myrrha, Propolis cera.

Product: Tesco Sun Protection SPF15

Ingredients: Aqua, Dicaprylyl Malete, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzolmethane, Benzophenone-3, Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide, Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Phenoxyethanol, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, Parfum, Triethanolemine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Camellia Sinensis, Sodium Hydroxide, Theobroma Cacao, BHT, Methyldibromo Glutaronotirile, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben.

Bin, immediately.


Product: Sisley Eye Contour Mask


This incredibly expensive eye cream really does "reduce fine lines and puffiness" so I would be sorry to see the it go. However, I can find no indication of what is in it, either on the tube or on the Sisley website. 


Dear Sir or Madam, Would you be so kind as to send me a list of the ingredients contained in your Sisley Eye Contour Mask? With best regards, Cannalily.